Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Ponnappa, a Coorgi, has made Goa his home for a while now, and over the years has transformed his house into a quaint lesson in history and passion. It is filled with little knick-knacks collected from various places and people, going back generations. Right from his door step, antiques and paintings are juxtaposed with every day items, not in-the-face, but sufficiently interesting to make one stop and take notice. He picks up the mouthpiece of an old telephone near the entrance, the kind one sees in a Laurel and Hardy movie, and shows you that it can still work. All it needs is the connection to the telephone line.
The walls of his living room house three guns, all crafted from wood by the man himself. They are exact replicas of the original ones and have been borrowed time and again by directors of Bollywood movies for use in their films. Along one wall, rests a showcase with myriad things from the world over. It's a museum in a museum, a place to learn history through stories, little jaunts, and accidents.
The most beautiful of things by far, in his house, are his paintings. They come alive in a riot of colour, the subtle wash of emotions, and the faint scratch of a pencil sketch. His attention to detail is breathtakingly wondrous, with every tile on every floor, the slat of every blind, the hair on every coat of fur coming alive in each painting. His favourite, says Jessica his wife of nearly 50 years, is the painting of a tiger his son's bedroom. Its eyes scream in a mixture of fear and anger, the roar almost heard through the dark cavity of its mouth, and its resilience reiterated in the fangs that pierce the background.
Ponnappa's light side steps into his w/c too, where he has neatly stuck colourful go-go flowers along the wall of the shower stall right onto the toilet seat! A neat photo album is made on their ironing board - pictures of their son, and daughter with her family pasted on the board that slides down when the time comes....
A little personal collection of lamps that can still be used line the stairway to the first floor, and cuckoo clocks find their niche on the walls. He brings out an old view finder, not the silly plastic ones we find today. Ponnappa's is made of wood and takes you back centuries. The 1800s and early 1900s jump back in 3D through the adjustable lens. The case for the view finder frames is another interesting addition. It resembles a couple of old leather bound books stuck together. Lain on its side, it reveals a collection of beautiful frames showing pictures of the old Western societies.
Ponnappa isn't the only one in his family who have a claim to fame. His daughter took part in the Femina Mrs India contest. And the bikes you see in the Bollywood movie Dhoom? Well, they belong to his son Zubin, and so do the stunts in the same movie....
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Welcome, to the world
Of the living dead
To a world over-anxious,
Underpaid and over-fed.
To a life that’s worth living
Not even in a womb
Everyone, everywhere is
In a personalized cocoon.
A dreary, bleak
And selfish world
Say ‘hello’ to the Butcher,
Baker and Churl.
To the psychos and nymphos
To a race of greed
To the sadists and hunters
That wait to see you bleed
Until you turn back with a vengeance
Revenge all you want to get
When lying dead at your feet
You realize their mission is what you just met.
Curses and mires
The world up in flames
Scaled models and toys
To play their deadly games
All alone and confused
Through this world you must grope
Till for peace and tranquility
With Death you will elope.
It was nearly as I struggled to pull on my socks, hop into my jeans and run for the bus. I half-walked, half-ran to the stop 600 meters away, and despite waking up ‘on time’, still had to sprint for the rickety bus.
The long weekend held nothing very interesting in store, and my bank account ensured that a vacation to Ooty was not on the cards. I’d heard from a couple of people that Srirangapatnam was an interesting place to visit, and history having been one of the more engrossing subjects in school just gave this weekend a ‘Srirangapatnam feel’.
Buses frequently ply from KempeGowda bus stand in the center of
The sign welcoming tourists to the town says ‘Welcome to the historical city of
If your intention is to spend the day in Srirangaptnam and you are one of those either entirely broke or with a passion for walking in the heat, it is possible to visit almost all monuments on foot. They are all located within 2 kilometers of each other, but in all one might do a good 15 kilometers worth of walking around the historical city.
Let the guides not fool you, especially at the Jamma Masjid; they tell you things that are common to most masjids dating back several centuries. The masjid in Srirangapatnam was used by the ruler of the time (Tipu) who happened to be a rather devout man. It currently runs as a madrasa for young Muslim boys learning the Koran. There is a sundial on the first floor, the needle of which was apparently stolen by the British. The interesting thing about the masjid is that it has Hindu motifs on the top of the towers. A 150 odd steps lead to the top of the towers which are now closed due to the crumbling stairways. Pigeons nest in the holes along the towers, used by Tipu as his personal postal service.
The guide will point out the black hill across, the watch tower a furlong away, and the graves of Tipu’s guru and his family in the masjid courtyard, all of which you can do by yourself besides taking in the appetizing aroma of cooking mutton from the madrasa just below. As you exit, he might ask for a 30 rupee fee which is a gross over charge for the kind of information he spews. Whether you like it or not, you will be accosted by rickshawallas or tongawallas offering you a tour of the sites. If you aren’t keen on walking, take the
A collection of old pillars with engravings of Hindu deities will pass by just after the Watergate (nothing of course to do with President Nixon hundreds of years later). Apparently Tipu used it as a sort of passage in and out of the fort. The site where Tipu’s body was found after he so valiantly but vainly fought to keep the dirty British hands off his territory is marked by a simple white granite slab put up, surprisingly, by the British viceroy of the day.
The Sultan’s old palace is in ruins and it isn’t a disappointment to peep over the padlocked gates, as there is nothing much to see. Opposite, however, lies the Sri Ranganathaswamy temple which houses the largest reclining statue of Shiva in the country and possibly the world. You pay a measly 2 rupees for the man to watch your shoes as you go inside to see the priests pray, or receive Prasad, or give in offerings of your own. Outside, half a dozen old racehorses walk in circles with tourists on their backs screaming for a photograph. Refrain from buying anything apart from tender coconuts outside the temple. The curios are not worth it, and the biscuits are stale. Unless you fancy South Indian snacks that you could get a better deal for not more than a hundred yards away, you might decide against sitting and eating right there.
A little further down the street lies a dungeon Tipu used to imprison British prisoners of war. Twenty four Brits languished in the prison, tied to the walls with chains. They were to stand continuously for 23 hours of the day and allowed only an hour’s rest. Eleven perished and the rest set free after Tipu’s fall. Over the fencing of the prison flow the much disputed waters of the river Cauvery.
Tipu’s summer palace is worth a see with its hand painted walls from ceiling to floor depicting scenes of wars. Plaques, though sometimes confusing, explain each section of the wall paintings. Other sketches of people of the age, and various scenes are also on display along with a model of the city of
The restaurants on the highway provide a better bet as far as non-vegetarian food goes, and the value for money is quite reasonable. If you are male (or if you are a woman who does not mind being stared at) and wish to cool off, hop into a rickshaw and head for the dam about 12 kms away. It’s a welcome relief to splash about in the cold water and let all the day’s heat seep away right there.
For a free day with a few pennies in your pocket and a bit of history eating your mind, Srirangapatnam is a cheap getaway from the nearby throb of
Disclaimer: Some tidbits of info may not be accurate. I blame it on short term memory.