Somewhere along the way you suddenly find yourself with two
days to spare and the feeling that you really don’t want to do your chores.
Kick off the mundane and don’t settle for reruns of Breaking Bad and How I Met
Your Mother. Instead, get out and rediscover those memories of skipping class
for hot samosas, pedaling furiously down back lanes or sneaking off with a
teenage crush to a quiet spot. This time, we’ve picked Panjim.
Day 1:
Morning
Kick it off with some puri bhaji at Café Tato in the beating
heart of the city. Everyone’s got their favourite spot for bhaji, but with
Tato’s you can’t really go wrong. Follow it up with a plate of mirchi bhajis.
As one of the city’s oldest and most popular cafés, you’re sure to spot someone
familiar.
Take a walk around Panjim – you don’t have to go too far to
browse through the stores. You would agree that the shopping here is far from
the best, but you never know what new belt or random t-shirt with a quote about
feni might catch your eye.
You could either walk down 18th June Road and
enjoy the bustle under tree-lined streets, or weave your way through Fontainhas
and São
Tomé.
It is evident the early fathers didn’t spare much thought for the traffic of
the future and the cramped lanes in Panjim’s Latin quarter could make walking a
slight hazard. But frankly, it’s quite worth it.
You’ll find some interesting curios at the Velha Goa Galeria
to add to your collection, and the walk up to the Maruti Temple provides a neat
view of life below. Cycling around these streets is even more enjoyable as it
lets you cover greater distances without missing out.
Stop at the General Post Office and send some snail mail to
a long-forgotten friend.
Afternoon
The perfect start to an afternoon could only be in the
centre of Fontainhas with some delicious home cooking at Viva Panjim. It’s best
to sit inside on a hot afternoon, particularly when you’re not too keen on
having a local whiz by on his bike inches from the al fresco seating. The food
here is reasonably priced and unpretentious, and will bring back dozens of
memories of the times you have shared with friends and family. If you’re lucky,
they might still have a tipple or two of this year’s urak.
Spending the day off at home in Goa is made fulfilling with
an afternoon siesta. If you live close to the city, sneak home for an afternoon
kip. If not, head to Miramar beach and you’re sure to nod off under one of
those palm fronds. Catching up on reading at the beach makes for a delightful
way to spend the afternoon alone.
Evening
When the heat has dissipated a little, it’s time to bring
out your swimmers and hit the beach. Make the most of the closing of the
summer, taking the short drive to Vainguinim beach at Cidade de Goa in Dona
Paula for a few hours of wading in the shallows.
You could join in a game of football, should some of the
locals be kicking one about. Or let out your inner child and build a sand
castle or sculpture. The sinking sun steeps the myriad faces of stress out
across the darkening sea and there’s nothing like a swell dinner to make the
rest of it magically disappear.
Panjim’s latest entrant on the bistro circuit is not one to
miss. Black Sheep Bistro has made the cut and raised the bar with some fine
twists on Goan classics and a nice selection of spirits and wines to go along.
It’s open for dinner, and keeps it home grown by using only locally sourced
ingredients. So you might want to take a rain check on that beef roulade
craving since most of our buffalo meat comes from out of Goa.
Dinner done with, hop across only a furlong away to Café
Mojo for some groovy tunes and a few drinks. If you’re looking for somewhere a
little less cramped, Butter in Patto has a little more elbow room.
Day 2:
Morning
You certainly cannot be expected to wake up bright and early
after a night on the town. But for those of you who are supernatural and do hit
the road running, take a walk on Miramar beach, or by the fields – the last of
them anyway – in Taleigao.
If you’d like to get reacquainted with a higher power, a
visit to the chapel at Raj Bhavan in Dona Paula is a beautiful way to start the
day. Even if you do forget to register your car number in advance, there’s a
lovely look-out spot close to the entrance of the Governor’s Palace where you
can soak up some energy.
The Goa Marriott Resort and Spa lays out a lovely brunch on
Sundays, the ideal way to squeeze out any remnants of a hangover. You could
also opt for the much more reasonably priced offerings at Not Just Omlettes on
18th June Road.
Afternoon
A good brunch could either perk up your spirits or slow you
down. For a case of the former, pop into the gaming arcade at Caculo Mall in St
Ines and unleash your bowling skills at the alley, drive like a maniac in the
bumper cars or try your luck at pinball.
To cure a case of the latter, you could catch up on some
reading at Kala Academy or under the shade of the trees in the Campal garden.
There could be an interesting play or tiatr being staged at Kala Academy, so
you can buy a last-minute ticket and enjoy a bit of Goan entertainment.
Evening
As evening jogs on, take a slow walk down the Panjim
promenade. Look closely at the heritage buildings as you pass by – the old Goa
Medical College, the State Bank of India building, old Secretariat – and
visually wipe out the present. Imagine life in black and white when residents
mostly walked and the annoying sound of today’s vehicle horns were replaced by
the chirping of birds.
Close the evening with a ride on the ferry across the
Mandovi River to the rooftop tables at Terry’s. There’s not a sight more
beautiful than the twinkling lights of a city you have called home, served
alongside the wash of the river down below and some fresh catch from the sea.
First published in Goa Streets
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